Here’s the collection for YSL – Fall/Winter 2010/11 mens show. This is what you see once the Bruce Weber film (below) airs. Expect our rundown of the YSL and other Paris shows later this week.
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“Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing” a 7-minute film by Bruce Weber debuted today in Paris before the YSL Men’s show. True to Bruce Weber style, the film features several gorgeous male models, music by Weber’s “champion of soul,” Marvin Gaye, and includes a special digital-cameo by fashion photog and former pinup girl, Bunny Yeager.
The film begins with male models dancing shirtless. Weber does a voice over with French subtitles where he explains that many of his “new friends” always feel they must first ask someone else (a boyfriend, girlfriend, or grandmother) if they can be shot topless or nude. Weber’s response? “if you don’t want to be nude, wear a suit.”
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I suppose the idea of the scent was to evoke the energy of a sun tanned Greek Adonis, sweaty and virile, as if Pierre Bourdon was given the dirty underwear of a conquest from a stay in Mykonos as a brief.
Created in 1981 the scent defies all current trends for men’s fragrance. The move towards “clean” smelling scents, as if men needed to puritanically oppress their body odors, has created legions of fragrance that smell like bad shampoo. On the contrary, Kouros smells quite “dirty” and is mistakenly attributed to contain civet (the fecal smelling perfume ingredient procured from the glands of a cat). Perfume critic Chandler Burr declared that the scent should only be worn by the French, in France. I tested the smell with a French friend, upon taking a whiff she exclaimed “Ewww! It smells like sex, not in a good way”.
Throughout the menswear collections was a feeling of the late 80’s and the early 90’s, a look back to the soft ethnic inspirations of Armani, Ray Petri’s buffalo style, the era’s strange masculine fervor that seemed at once bullish and poetic, and its hard earned, unbridled optimism. Casting this season has seen a change with more men of color on the runways since the early 90’s, a promising sign of new perceptions in beauty. Something is in the air. That period, like our own, found designers and consumers reconciling a decade of excess and consumption, waning towards an essentialist point of view, and grabbing at any reference they could that would allow them to feel grounded and whole. The best collections understood this energy, absorbed that energy, and transmuted it into something new.
The stakes are higher now than they were 20 years ago. At that time, designer mens fashion was a minuscule niche, its importance no further realized than accessories and handbags. But in the past 10 years it has become an industry engine of its own, more than a platform for fine tailoring; designers have used their menswear collections to voice their perspective on the world and to subvert the male identity into so many varied dimensions. Just in time for the new decade, here are the top 10 collections that are boldly pushing ahead, defining a new era.
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BLACK TIE | Rachel Zoe-ssociate, Mr. Brad Goreski, shares his Emmy’s “look” with his 14,647+ tweetpeas. What’s he wearing? Dolce & Gabbana blazer, Tom Ford button down, Burberry bowtie, YSL pants and Gucci shoes. No socks? “I only wear socks and belts when necessary,” Brad tweets back. “But I have lots of super fun socks. Maybe I will start featuring them.”
There have been many a tribute to the late, great Yves Saint Laurent but my favorite so far has to be photographer Peter Gehrke’s emulation (coincidental or otherwise) of the iconic portrait of the fashion legend taken by photographer Jeanloup Sieff in 1971. The original below along with another of Gehrke’s interpretations.
Photograph of the late St. Laurent’s french bulldog “Moujik”, photographed by Hedi Slimane: French Vogue has published a particular series of photographs by Hedi Slimane, an homage to a mentor from a student. The images are of St. Laurent’s studio, home, life long business (and at one point romantic) partner Pierre Berge, and of course Moujik. Hedi helmed the YSL Rive Gauche’s menswear studio in the late 90’s giving the house a return to its former glory. When Gucci Group purchased the company Tom Ford ousted the designer embittering an aging Yves. The healing of time and his acute photographic eye reveal Slimane’s own perception and inclinations towards Yves’ legacy and their personal relationship. Although Slimane no longer has any involvement with the YSL business, these photos give a rare and special look at the house of YSL through Slimane’s lens.
You can view more of Hedi’s photos in his fashion diary at hedislimane.com.
5. The Collaboration: Comme Des Garcons for H&M
Rei Kawakubo’s hidden fondness for making stupid money through brand dilution and H&M’s willingness to oblige her led to the years most extreme and unexpected designer collaboration. A genuine CDG label stitched in the center back combined with mass market prices sent fashion devotees *cough* victims *cough* en masse to snatch up the goodies. None of the products offered were in league with CDG’s runway creations (not that I care for the Homme Plus or SHIRT lines anyway) but a noteworthy piece were the unisex advertised drop crotch pants, a fashion revolution as far as H&M’s customer is concerned.
4. The Reinvention: Hedi Slimane for Prada Men’s S/S 2009
The influence Hedi Slimane exacted over men’s fashion was overwhelming; using his highly stylized runway shows and documentary based photography he created a universe that has become pervasive through every extent of contemporary menswear. His step back from designing saw him thoroughly follow up on his artistic side presenting his work in galleries as a serious artist. And now, a venerable Italian Brand has tapped into his vision calling on Slimane to imbue their men’s business with a bit of cool. Time will tell if Hedi’s involvement will be left merely to be art direction for an ad campaign or if perhaps Miuccia has a design post in mind.
3. The Elaboration: Men’s Only Designer Boutiques
Menswear was always been the bane of designer businesses usually losing money or being licensed out to a shirting company. But over the past ten years shifting gender values have made men privy to deep vanity and keen investment in their appearance. A phenomenon of men’s only boutiques has spread with thoughtfully selected offerings and an offbeat progressive appeal. Odin, Atelier, and Bblessing in NYC, South Willard in L.A., Blackbird in Seattle, and now a J.Crew concept store in Tribeca have proven menswear to be a viable and growing market.
2. The Rebellion: YSL scraps Runway Show In Favor of Video Installation
In an attempt to add identity and distinction to the YSL men’s collection, creative director Stefano Pilati opted for a video presentation rather than the standard fashion show. For Fall 08 and Spring 09 the clothes were given a persona played by a single actor and a narrative that spoke more to the YSL man than what a catwalk full of 17 year old boys could do. From scene to scene the YSL man is given images and mood that define the soul and values of the brand. Pilati has discovered a potent presentation that resonates more effectively with a mature male consumer, and it doesn’t hurt that both collections were some of the most remarkable of the year.
1. The Ascension: Raf Simons, Menswear Designer of the Year
What is there that needs to be said?