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Stylist Olivier Rizzo evokes Buffalo Style for Arena Homme +

The vision of stylist Ray Petri has proved itself as one of the most potent and influential aesthetics in men’s fashion. And in 2009, his mid 80’s-early 90’s defining Buffalo look is on the cusps of a comeback…

The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine, high and low, and especially hard and soft are the basics of Ray Petri’s Buffalo style. The look defined the youth energy of the 80’s and early 90’s as Neneh Cherry’s “Buffalo Stance” (above) and magazines like The Face and I-D brought it into pop culture. Buffalo style redefined symbolism in men’s dress, erasing away their historical meaning and leaving the most cherished sartorial traditions fair game to subversion.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2009: Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci

This is Ricardo Tisci’s sophomore collection for Givenchy’s menswear division, notable in the least because it marks the second occasion he has designed for men. If Tisci’s Givenchy woman is a spicy, indulgent, and unapologetic Latina best represented by muse Maria Carla Boscono, then the Givenchy man is more than her match. This is an example of what superb styling and casting can do for a collection. Bucking the trend for tiny prickish looking white boys Tisci’s team went for a totally foreign (to Paris fashion week) look evocative of the street in an ingenious and hyper sexual way. The overall effect gave a contrast and balance between hard and soft that echoes the styling of the late Ray Petri (a for sure sign of a coming revival of the era). The clothes themselves play with notions of good taste v.s. bad taste, masculine v.s. feminine, and if not for the presentation could possibly be construed as tacky. But that’s the fun of fashion and it’s that sense of humor and daring that Tisci is bringing to the house. And lest we not forget, sex sells.