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With the way Miuccia Prada conceptualizes, or ponders conceptualizing, you can never be sure if the humor in her collection is intentional or that you’re just not in on the joke. But after two seasons of relatively dark and brooding collections it’s a telling sign to feel the tickle of the funny bone in one of fashion’s most omniscient and enigmatic labels.
A collection done almost entirely in tones of gray, to suggest old black and white movies according to Miuccia, was one of Prada’s most focused collections in some time. The attention was kept on a modern silhouette and the use of mesh and punctured materials, seen in knits, wovens, and shoes. Not a totally new idea but certainly her take on mesh is one of the best yet executed, it’s a material that can all too easily go the way of International Male Catalog. The collection is quiet but there are plenty of good clothes to wear.
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5. The Collaboration: Comme Des Garcons for H&M
Rei Kawakubo’s hidden fondness for making stupid money through brand dilution and H&M’s willingness to oblige her led to the years most extreme and unexpected designer collaboration. A genuine CDG label stitched in the center back combined with mass market prices sent fashion devotees *cough* victims *cough* en masse to snatch up the goodies. None of the products offered were in league with CDG’s runway creations (not that I care for the Homme Plus or SHIRT lines anyway) but a noteworthy piece were the unisex advertised drop crotch pants, a fashion revolution as far as H&M’s customer is concerned.
4. The Reinvention: Hedi Slimane for Prada Men’s S/S 2009
The influence Hedi Slimane exacted over men’s fashion was overwhelming; using his highly stylized runway shows and documentary based photography he created a universe that has become pervasive through every extent of contemporary menswear. His step back from designing saw him thoroughly follow up on his artistic side presenting his work in galleries as a serious artist. And now, a venerable Italian Brand has tapped into his vision calling on Slimane to imbue their men’s business with a bit of cool. Time will tell if Hedi’s involvement will be left merely to be art direction for an ad campaign or if perhaps Miuccia has a design post in mind.
3. The Elaboration: Men’s Only Designer Boutiques
Menswear was always been the bane of designer businesses usually losing money or being licensed out to a shirting company. But over the past ten years shifting gender values have made men privy to deep vanity and keen investment in their appearance. A phenomenon of men’s only boutiques has spread with thoughtfully selected offerings and an offbeat progressive appeal. Odin, Atelier, and Bblessing in NYC, South Willard in L.A., Blackbird in Seattle, and now a J.Crew concept store in Tribeca have proven menswear to be a viable and growing market.
2. The Rebellion: YSL scraps Runway Show In Favor of Video Installation
In an attempt to add identity and distinction to the YSL men’s collection, creative director Stefano Pilati opted for a video presentation rather than the standard fashion show. For Fall 08 and Spring 09 the clothes were given a persona played by a single actor and a narrative that spoke more to the YSL man than what a catwalk full of 17 year old boys could do. From scene to scene the YSL man is given images and mood that define the soul and values of the brand. Pilati has discovered a potent presentation that resonates more effectively with a mature male consumer, and it doesn’t hurt that both collections were some of the most remarkable of the year.
1. The Ascension: Raf Simons, Menswear Designer of the Year
What is there that needs to be said?
Hedi Slimane extends his grasp into the depths of fashion shooting the Prada Spring/Summer 09 ad campaign. The boys in the photo are the progeny of The Clash bassist Paul Simonon.
