New York City Fashion Week

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Thom Browne | New York Fashion Week

September 16, 2008 in Fashion by Faggoting | No comments

Thom Browne | A friend and I were having a discussion about Thom Browne and his penchant for large scale theatrics in his shows. It was mentioned that his grand show pieces become gimmicks ala Viktor & Rolf and belie the fairly quiet and ordinary clothes he actually sells. But you can’t hold a man’s sense of humor against him. True, none of us will be clamoring for the stuffed-in bridal look or clown-thug trousers worn at our knees, but you have to learn to look beyond that. It’s been Browne’s M.O. to channel preppy American heritage in the strictest sartorial sense and he’s taken some new liberties. Those ultra low pants suggest a new proportion, dropping the crotch, loosening the fit in the thigh, and tapering towards the ankle – a silhouette that other designers this season are picking up on. But most notably Thom has expanded his universe, known for his suiting and shirts, he’s brought in the element of sportswear in a big way. A tennis polo as immaculately made as his suits? Yes please. And that Michael Phelps get up with the docile sheen? A leisurely approach to the suit? Nothing to run home and slap your mother over but certainly nice enough.

Tim Hamilton | New York Fashion Week

September 15, 2008 in Fashion by Faggoting | 3 comments

Tim Hamilton | Hamilton designs for men in the same way other designers do for women. His collections are sincere proposals of new ideas and new garments that may or may not be absorbed into an already established system of dressing. With his graphic silhouettes, angular tailoring, and unconventional fabrics he makes an unapologetic and sometimes brash statement. And it looks just too good. Paneled trousers that shape to the leg, doubled breasted cardigans that nip the waist but soften the torso, and his insistence on masculine signatures like epaulets and rivets that frame up the figure rather than leaving it to a tired military reference. It brings to mind the work Claude Montana or Thierry Mugler who worked in a similar way. He looks to the past, historical references are plenty, but it can only feel like the future. It’s such a look and if anything it’s too much of one. Hamilton’s take on menswear is so wrought with his aesthetic it glares and for a practical man’s wardrobe it’s not the most digestible. Doesn’t seem like Hamilton is concerned with such things and that can only be a good thing.

Shipley and Halmos | New York Fashion Week

September 12, 2008 in Fashion by Faggoting | No comments

Shipley and Halmos | These aren’t the clothes you’d think required a runway show but then a static showroom presentation would have been severely underwhelming. There’s not much of a story to tell that someone else hasn’t already told. Shipley & Halmos runs the full gamut of conventions regarding young American menswear. They’ve got that retro twang, twisting up tried and true classics with a hint of sartorial wit making it very of the moment. It’s a game we’ve all played and that helps to make this collection immediately accessible and wearable. And perhaps it’s that familiarity that makes it disappointingly less evocative of the hum and drum of high fashion.