PRUDENCE | Patrik Ervell is rare bird in fashion in that it’s not exactly “fashion” that he designs. His clothes, based on traditional male suiting, vintage military active wear, and folk references, are more in line with London’s Margaret Howell than any of the avant-garde labels that have gained ground in the past few years. He slowly updates the wardrobe and favors discretion and detail over flamboyance and flair. He’s not one to chase a trend or even invent one for that matter, but you’d be surprised of the growing audience for clothes just like his.
If there is any qualm with the way he works it’s that Ervell’s collections could be viewed as repetitive and predictable, but this season he shook it up by adding prints to his vocabulary. Using oxidization and metallic chemical reactions Ervell developed a “rust” print that created textural interest rather than an ostentatious print effect. The look garners interest but is subtle enough to be worn without having to feel like a peacock. Patrik reprised his slim suit silhouette and updated his signature parachute piecing with a longer cotton jacket. All notable advancements but the collection is a few developments short to make the leap that after 3 years, you’d hope it would. If Patrik could only step out of his comfort zone, or rather expand it, he might be able to give us some real news and not just nice clothes.
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