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Goddamn what a gorgeous suit! “Iron Man,” Robert Downey Jr arrived on the Oscar Red Carpet with one of the most stand-out looks of the entire Awards season—as far as men’s looks go. According to various sources, Downey Jr. wore Lanvin (hence the forget-me-not blue tie), Oliver Peoples Sheldrake glasses with custom blue lenses and high-tops (also Lanvin). We think he looked great and we really enjoyed the shape of the oversize tie and feel evoked by the casual footwear. Thoughts? Weigh in below.
Stylist Olivier Rizzo evokes Buffalo Style for Arena Homme +
The vision of stylist Ray Petri has proved itself as one of the most potent and influential aesthetics in men’s fashion. And in 2009, his mid 80’s-early 90’s defining Buffalo look is on the cusps of a comeback…
The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine, high and low, and especially hard and soft are the basics of Ray Petri’s Buffalo style. The look defined the youth energy of the 80’s and early 90’s as Neneh Cherry’s “Buffalo Stance” (above) and magazines like The Face and I-D brought it into pop culture. Buffalo style redefined symbolism in men’s dress, erasing away their historical meaning and leaving the most cherished sartorial traditions fair game to subversion.
PFW | Like magical talismans bequeathed by a maharajah or ripped from the neck of a demon king during an epic battle the Lanvin woman is at once a warrior and an empress. Commanding, fascinating and powerful, she is the height of modernity but yet richly adorned. Luxury has taken a new and interesting tangent.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK | As a keen fashion observer it can be hard to remain enthusiastic or inspired season in, season out. With the onslaught of fashion weeks around the world and not to mention the rising profile of pre-fall and resort collections one can’t help to suffer from fashion burnout. But then, like a lightning bolt comes a collection that snaps one out of one’s torpor and literally knocks one’s wind out.
Alber Elbaz’s sublime spring/summer collection for Lanvin can only be described as prodigious. Elegiac, yet presented in an exuberant riot of color, the clothes demonstrated a technician at the height of his powers. Underneath the lightness of a silk chiffon dress draped across the body and ingeniously tapered into a single pant leg is a mastery of construction or more aptly a lack thereof. The brilliance of Elbaz lies in the fact that he strips away the seams and the sews only what is precisely needed to achieve the shape placing the fabric and its grain at the forefront.
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Former Cloak designer Robert Geller has established himself as the top purveyor of clothes for the downtown hipster boy, the male counterpart of Alex Wang if you will. His Spring 2010 collection kept that vibe but this season he pushed his look a bit too close to Lucas Ossendrijver’s repertoire at Lavin Homme. In recent years, Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz have thoroughly developed a romantic vision for the newly defined Lanvin man. Feminine luxe, playful colors, and a sophisticated boyish humor have made their line one of the most distinct and recognizable menswear labels out there. And it’s a shame I was able recognize it on Geller’s own runway. In this economy, when the need to provide clothes that are truly unique and special is vital, Geller missed the chance to declare a distinct message of his own. His staples were all there, skinny trousers, military jackets, but their filter of Parisian chic was not convincing enough.
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Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2009: Lanvin by Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver.
Imagine that only 3 years ago Lanvin was no more than bourgeois office suiting and frenchifed shirting. I suppose that’s the magic you get from an ex-Beene assistant once handpicked by St.Laurent and a Paris menswear veteran steeped in the subtle nuance of contemporary romance ala Dior Homme.
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The creme de la creme, the king of the hill, the debutante of denim, the zenith of zipflys, the Lanvin and Acne Jeans collaboration is about to hit stores next week. The line which was shown on the Lanvin Homme spring 2009 catwalk holds a full range of bottoms, tops, and outerwear all fabricated in the best Japanese and Italian indigo dyed twill. The full collection will be available at Barney’s and the Acne store on greene st. But don’t expect these choice items to come cheap as both Lanvin’s and Acne’s prices are notoriously some of the most expensive in their tier. It’s perplexing that high end couture denim seems like the right product to be sending out into this tough and ever rougher retail environment. Yet, with Lucas’ and Alber’s magic touch I’m sure these jeans will have no problem getting off the racks and onto the the legs of the fashion devoted. I on the other hand will be rummaging up my own version with a good hem and overdye job on some old Eddie Bauer pleated denim trousers I found in the thrift.
www.lanvin.com
www.acnestudios.com
Windowlicker: The homo-neurotic’s weekly perusal of objects accessible only to those with the financial resources of a Russian oligarch that incite horror, desire, shame, and revulsion. All at the same time.
By Jonathan Thong
THE HIGH LIFE – Long an afterthought, men’s shoes have recently begun to emerge as a sartorial force. Here are this season’s most compelling pieces of footwear. Gird your loins gentlemen, they don’t come cheap.
Hightop Sneakers by Lanvin – $665 @ Barneys New York
More shoe-candy after the jumpy-jump.
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