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Fashion

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Last year we hit up the soft launch for  NYC-based menswear line Aeleis, founded by designer Philippe Trinh, and this year he’s readied the line for its official launch.  It may seem like a harsh climate for opening up shop, particularly following the pruning of the playing field for menswear designers over the past couple years, but Aeleis looks to capitalize on several of its strengths to beat the odds.  Among these are the attention to quality, NYC garment district- based construction and a focus on unique detailing, most notable in Trinh’s collar designs inspired by vintage garments from the 1900s.  We’re also kind of loving the knit union trousers.  Check out their Facebook page here for updates and their website for the complete Fall 2010 collection. Campaign photos by John Paul Tran and lookbook by Peter Krasowski.

Via ABCNews (Joan Sinclair)

Via ABCNews (Joan Sinclair)

A friend of mine (ahem…not me, but a friend of mine) once offered a portion of his tuition refund check to his favorite Falcon Exclusive for the porn god’s stage worn orange g-string. Suffice it to say, said friend had eaten one too many packs of Ramen noodles. But patrons of Japanese sex clubs like Air Touch trump that measly $200 by flinging stacks of cash as thick as £2,000 for worn flight attendant uniforms, prompting Japan Airlines, who will cut its work force by 2,700 this week, to track their flight attendant’s garments by sewing serial numbers into each piece.

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Just in time for Paris Fashion Week, fashion photographer Simon Procter is staging an exhibition of a series of angelic Renaissance-inspired photomontages.  Procter’s training as a classical painter is clearly evident in his evocation of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling, with a clear nod to some of the top fashion pieces of the season.  For those with a more philosophical interest in photography, a recent article in the New York Times discusses some of the controversy over the place of photoshop in photography in creating works like these which blur the lines between classical photography and painting.

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Alexis Mabille’s recent foray into menswear has been praised by editors and bloggers alike for attention to detail and design.  So, it certainly didn’t go unnoticed this year when the couturier sent a flock of young men down his Paris runway wearing little more than a pair of skivvies and suspenders.  Not that we were complaining, certainly.  It turns out that the underwear are among the easier items to find an online retailer for, since his menswear has yet to be picked up by any U.S. stockists.  StudioHomme produced the tempting video above to advertise their collection of his wares.  Couture underwear… just what you needed, right?

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Hyun Yeu video 1 from Hyun Yeu on Vimeo.

Perhaps it’s a bit early to be thinking of Spring, but this video lookbook for the new menswear line Ado Les Scents, by designer Hyun Yeu, certainly puts me in the mood.  Regarding the mission statement of the brand, Hyun writes:

The label vision manifests itself in elegant, high-quality menswear with innovative shapes and fabrics. ‘ADO LES SCENTS’ aims for a young-minded crowd. These men are not afraid to stand out and show their vulnerable side.

Hyun has also collaborated with video artist Joost Vandebrug on a piece entitled “Rain” which is also part of the Ado Les Scents marketing, but with a decidedly darker mood.

RAIN (extended version) from joostvandebrug on Vimeo.

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Francesco wears a Rick Owens hoodie, Bess leather pants, Gareth Pugh shirt, and Yohji Yamamoto box-pleated wrap apron.

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Photos: Racked.com, Models.com

Photos: Racked.com, Models.com

It may sound petty ITE (In This Economy = new acronym!), but we’re super excited about the new Hermes Men’s Store on Madison Ave. — a first of its kind — slated to open in February. Racked.com has the full scoop here. Who doesn’t want an explicit reminder of all the beautiful things we cannot afford? Exactly.

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Homo-Neurotic favorites Luigi & Luca treat us to a preview of their most recent collaboration with a handful of Berlin designers, entitled Abnegation. Abnegation refers to the renunciation of personal interests in favor of another’s or the rejection of religious doctrine.  These ideas come to life in their images, which make occasional references to classical Christian iconography while simultaneously subverting it.  On the series’ title, the duo writes:

” Modern life is based on self-abnegation, but in an opposite sense from the religious way.  We deny a part of ourselves not achieve something higher, but to merely forget about it.  That part we renounce cannot really be called an attainment of progress, but the result of another failing religion.”

If you happen to be in Berlin for Fashion Week this year, the whole collection of images will be on display January 26th at 6pm at Abnormals Gallery.  Enjoy the preview, with more images after the jump.  

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Brodarte — Rodarte for Boys — hit retailer Opening Ceremony earlier this week.  The unusual choice of name aside, it seems paradoxical to introduce a small menswear line at this price point when most consumers are tightening purse strings and locking down the wallet.  At $2,760 a pop, these gossamer pieces don’t come cheap, but compared to the label’s womenswear pieces the boys are getting a steal.  Or are they?

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Homo-Neurotic online photo-zine favorite, Guapo Magazine, has rolled out a new format and an impressive roster of content just in time for the new year.  It drops the first issue of its redesign complete with interviews featuring the talented photographer Mariano Vivanco, up-and-coming designer Asher Levine, and actor Edouard Collin — not to mention the editorials full of chicos guapos. Keep an eye on this site… it’s definitely going places.  

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Today, YVY released their latest editorial “Watching Diego” — photographed and styled by our close friends Walker Brockington and Fernando Lahoz. Clothing (yes, Mr. Diego is wearing clothes) is from Buckler. Good work gents! Keep it up! Tres mas, after the jump.

Beauty Demo from stephane pivron on Vimeo.

A little mash-up of work from the post-production agency Mikros Image.  Enjoy!

There can be no question that we live in tumultuous times with a society seemingly on the cusp of widespread proliferation of the civil rights of the GLBT community.

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Certainly the press and blogosphere is rife with daily news of the push and pull of issues such as gay marriage or civil unions. But fortunately this is not going to be one those diatribes. What has received far less attention it seems to this writer is a discourse about the inner lives of gay men or perhaps men in general and the fear and anxiety that pervades it.

We don’t like to talk about our fears, particularly in a city like New York where fear is smelt 10 blocks away, emanating through the garbage and the dog pee evaporating on a warm summer afternoon. Of course our fear manifests into a multitude of forms. There are our neuroses about our appearance, our bodies, friendships, careers and our relationships or more pertinently, the lack thereof. More importantly there exists a profound uncertainty about our place in society. In a culture that fetishizes success, power, invulnerability and all over fabulousness, where does the gay man fit in? Are we a tribe? Do we have something that we can call a collective culture? Do we even talk in depth about the common narratives of our lives beyond that which only concerns our own problems and insecurities?

Perhaps a problem that we face is the fact that as a minority, we exhibit such a high degree of heterogeneity, not only in terms of race, demographics and education but also the way in which we manifest our homosexuality. So beyond large unifying civil rights issues in which we face oppression from a common enemy, what else is relevant?

Untitled from The Malcolm on Vimeo.

Design duo Richard and Anthony behind the label Commonwealth Utilities have struck upon a creative attention-grabbing vehicle for brand awareness in this video, entitled “Men We Love Fall 09″ by Nicholas Wagner.  It shows several guys undressing before transforming themselves into the Commonwealth Utilities’ man.   It’s probably NSFW but certainly worth watching when you get the chance.  The clothing line can be found at NYC’s Odin.

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Designer trio Nina Zilka, Jeff Dodd, and David J. Krause (pictured above) of the twentyten hosted a show for their second seasonless collection at Envoy Gallery and Homo-Neurotic dropped by to check it out.  Their womenswear  is characterized by structured, architectural details that are combined with romantic, draped shapes, giving rise to many wearable pieces while the menswear reaches into more romantic, dandy-esque territory.  In keeping with the green movement spreading among designers, their t-shirt pieces were constructed from eco-friendly soy cotton.   Delving into their blog, you find a fascinating look into their inspirations that run the gamut from furniture design to fine art photography.  The trio told Homo-Neurotic that their designs can be purchased at Blank (445 west 49th st, NYC), with more retail outlets on the way soon.  Price points range from $100-$600 for most items.  (more looks from the collection after the jump) Photography by Shutterbug.

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Always a man in pursuit of novelty, Karl Lagerfeld has clearly traded longtime boy-toy Brad Kroenig for new muse and victim of fanciful nakedness, Baptiste Giabiconi.  It was only a little over a year ago that Lagerfeld released a book chronicling his five year artistic collaboration with Kroenig… apparently an homage celebrating a bittersweet changing of the guards.  Following a series of prominent editorials (including a cover shoot for Wallpaper, posted earlier, and German Vogue), this recent editorial for Purple Fashion Magazine pays tribute to Helmut Newton’s work on a whirlwind trip from Saint Tropez to Venice and then Paris, complete with heels fit for a queen (of the drag variety, no less).

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Love her or hate her, the diva d’jour is making another colorful splash in September’s V Magazine with a photo shoot by photographer Mario Testino and stylist Nicola Formichetti.  Here’s a quick peek.

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Photographer Karim Sadli and stylist Robbie Spencer teamed up for a fresh take on the bondage aesthetic in the latest Dazed & Confused editorial.  The photos were inspired by some of the early bondage photos taken by Robert Mapplethorpe, who frequently explored the taboo world of gay fetishes in the 70’s and 80’s.

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Dorian Leigh, hat by Paulette, Paris, August 1949 Dovima, evening dress by Fath, Paris, August 1950

The great master of iconic post-war fashion photography, Richard Avedon, is the subject of an ongoing retrospective exhibit now open at the International Center of Photography.  The exhibit covers Avedon’s long career, beginning with Harper’s Bazaar and through his tenure at Vogue, The New Yorker and beyond.  Over 200 pieces of his work are on display, including highly erotic images from his advertising collaboration beginning in the 1980s with fashion designer Gianni Versace.  His considerable influence was first felt as a result of groundbreaking exploration of less static poses and more exuberant expressions in his models during a time when most fashion images were comparatively sterile.  He was also a pioneer in fighting for diversity in the ranks of models at a time when non-Caucasian models were taboo.  The exhibit runs through September 6th.

Jade Parfitt and Esther De Jong, ensembles by Galliano, New York Veruschka, dress by Kimberly, New York, January 1967

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Photography by Shutterbug.  Styling by Deadpix3l.  Pieces from stylist’s wardrobe: charcoal wool jersey dress by Junya Watanabe, black Issey Miyake Pleats Please jacket,  grey tunic by Pleasure Principle,  American Apparel circle scarf,  black boiled wool cape by Kondo.

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