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What’s the all purpose black shoe? You know what we mean. The shoe you can both dress up and dress down. Black sneakers and shoes should be versatile, a mix of casual and dressy, so you can pair them with anything — jeans, a suit, track pants. Whatever.
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While most retail stores are beginning to taunt customers with their anticipated spring collections, I can’t help but feel slightly jaded by the cruel joke that winter has only just begun – and all the pastel hues in the world cannot shake me out these doldrums. I’ve affectionately dubbed the months between January through March as “suicidal tendencies. Every effort gets focused on cute wool sweaters and dapper looking pea coats, making honorable attempts to stylize a red and wind burned face. Is it fair that only outerwear should receive all the attention? What about what’s underneath it all? Enter the tried and true yet highly underrated Long John.
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How are you going to ring in 2010? With so many party options it’s easy for a young gentleman to fall back on the tried and true tuxedo. While it remains a classic there is no need for all the formalities. Try taking key elements of the suit and dressing them down by incorporating them into your own personal style.
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Being a long time New Yorker you may hate me after reading this next sentence but I politely ask you to hold your judgments until the end. I am a huge fan of LA.
I guess some may consider me bicoastal (specifically my roommate) when every Saturday morning I dominate the living room with the old gang of West Beverly High School. Yes Donna Martin, Brenda Walsh and Dylan McKay are all there and up to their typical angst driven antics. Aside from the typical nostalgia (yes I was a teen during the original airing) I can’t help but notice that the high top sneakers and light stone washed denim finishes resonate just as strongly today as they did back then. The early 90’s are back in fashion (save Steve Sanders’ faded Mullet) and the infamous 90210 zip code has once again become a source of style thanks to SoapNet and DVR.
The Spring 2010 runways gave authority when they heralded in the resurgence of all things 90’s with baggier silhouettes and bright vivid colors. Ethnic chic, reminiscent of Cross Colours, was evident in the Givenchy’s collection, which highlighted African prints and oversized separates. Locals may remember Z. Cavaricci. For anyone from New York or New Jersey these pants were IT! High waisted and/or pleated with a roomy thigh, these relaxed garments epitomized an affordable take on runway fashion that any Guido from Staten Island can appreciate. The look is on point in Salvatore Ferragamo’s show who kept the relaxed movement, color palette and detailing of Cavaricci pants but updated the fabrics and straightened the leg, keeping it stylish and extremely wearable. But how does the typical guy translate these looks?
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Fetty of Brooklyn was born out of the belly of rock n’roll. Fronted by Justin Tranter, lead singer of Semi Precious Weapons, this jewelry collection has all the appeal of a glamed out, sexed upped, vintage hair band.
Tranter’s designs stray from the typical definition of pretty by examining darker themes while keeping a Cracker Jack cute aesthetic. Music as inspiration is evident in symbolic renderings of bad-assed skulls, saws and creepy crawlies that, evokes edgy grit reminiscent of bands like the New York Dolls.
The line is divided into three separate tiers royalty, boutique and urban; while the themes remain similar, the materials and price points do not. Names like Lizzie’s Love and Shot Through The Heart toy with word puns that reflect within the pieces’ unique designs. The Butcher’s Wife named after the 1991 film starring Demi Moore, in sterling silver is a fashionable heart and knife dual pendant with worn detailing and retails for $50. The Heart Beat earrings, while probably intended primarily for the female sex, have major hotness appeal for pierced men. The hammer and heart combination can be worn together or separated looking best with a denim jacket or a Semi Precious Weapons T-shirt.
The jewelry was originally only sold at Semi Precious Weapons concerts and has since evolved into higher-end retail establishments like Barneys as well as the company’s own website. It will be exciting to see where this line goes in the future. Designers like DKNY have already capitalized on the line’s success with a 2008 limited edition sneaker.
Crop of "Golconda" by René Magritte (1953)
It’s raining; it’s pouring! Does your rain gear get people snoring? Manhattan on a cold and rainy gray day is unbearable. Who wants a generic black Duane Reade umbrella contributing to the gloom?
Sofrap Black Casquette | $95
If the sun refuses to shine, try brightening up the sidewalks with some untraditional waterproof accessories. Strategic pops of bold color in durable nylons and rubber convey a stylish and playful attitude that will make you feel like Gene Kelly in “Singin’ In the Rain.”
Rain or Shine is a one of kind umbrella specialty shop located on 45th Street, which boasts to be the only store of its kind in the world. The parasol superstore carries an amazing variety of shapes, finishes and sizes. Recognizable brands like Doppler, Sofrap and Pierre Vaux ensure unparalleled craftsmanship and exquisite detailing right down to the handle.
Folding Kiku | $40
Some personal favorites include the stunning Sofrap — Black Casquette, which is ingeniously constructed with a longer back providing more protection form crazy side winds. The umbrella’s artistic design is further accentuated with colorful piping in basic red, green, blue and yellow, contrasting against the black surface. The whimsical yet masculine Marimekko Folding Kiku in red borrows heavily from Japanese inspired block prints, reminiscent of shoguns and urban geishas. Rain or Shine’s unique designs will appeal to a wide range of individual styles and personalities–a perfect solution for those rainy day doldrums!
Tretorn: Bergart Leather | $150
Protecting your manicured coif and lamb’s wool sweater is only half the battle on the mission to stay dry. Dirty puddles equal wet socks that, when worn all day at the office, have a tendency go foul. Luckily, rubber galoshes and rain boots have evolved beyond the bright yellow booties, which are best saved for grades K-5. More age-appropriate footwear is fully functional in snow and rain, yet stylish enough to be worn indoors with a pair of jeans. Swedish company Tretorn is notorious for quality rubber-made products. Noteworthy, the Bergart Leather is a neutral outdoorsy boot perfect for braving the elements outside and in. The oiled leather, partially lined wool and neutral color ads understated yet masculine details. Tretorn is available online and at their local retail location at 150 Spring Street.
Hunter Festival Boot | $210
The better-known option (and classic hipster staple) is, hands down, English boot company Hunter. Though not exactly cutting edge in terms of design or originality Hunter has earned its king-like status in the all-weather boot category and is featured almost exclusively on the L train. The Original Lace is a mid-calf boot constructed in vulcanized rubber. The front lace detail and selection of fun colors make this boot stand out in a playful way. My absolute favorite has to be the Festival boot in black. This Limited Edition boot with upper metalwork details is rugged and sexy, subtly hinting at Tom of Finland drawings.
LaCrosse ZXT Knee Boot | $66.95
Another company worth mentioning is LaCrosse. Completely utilitarian fashion is sacked in favor of function, which makes these butch boots totally hot. The ZXT 16-inch knee boot isn’t going to let anything through with 100% waterproof construction and slip resistant soles; you can safely walk across those treacherous subway grates without even the slightest stumble.
It’s true that in everybody’s life a little rain must fall, but these wet days no longer need to ruin your week. Take to the streets with these fun accessories that will brighten up even the dreariest of days.
Tiffany & Co. Atlas Flask ($750) | Banana Republic: Tumbled leather travel bag ($278)
TIMES LIKES THESE | Lately I have been really conscious about my economic standing. I am going to come right out and admit it. I am poor! These days my pockets are not running very deep when the rent is two weeks late, I am forced to eat Ramen and Con Ed is threatening to cut off the power (yeah it can happen!). I may be over exaggerating slightly but in these trying times and an ever-fluctuating credit card balance, I am not left with much to indulge in reckless shopping benders. So fear not, gentleman in like situations. We are not destined to sit this season out! I have found several recession friendly splurges to satisfy fashion hungry appetites that don’t fall victim to shifting trends.
Andrew Christian Sports Mesh Brief 9096 ($23)
1. | Change Drawers | Boxers or briefs? It’s really a personal preference. And it should come as no surprise that skivvies sales are on the rise. Unlike coats or sportswear, underwear sales tend to be unmoved by trends or seasonal spending. Also, underwear is a sure way to up the luxury factor by boosting ego as well as adding a little sexiness to what’s under your jeans even if you’re the only one who’s going to see them. Hot brands like CK, Ginch Gonch and Aussie Bum offer different styles, colors and cuts that not only enhance but also accentuate your bits and pieces. For the more unusual brands check out the companies’ websites or leading underwear e-tailer Freshpair.com for regular promotions and discounts.
Urban Outfitters 'Lost Flask' ($18)
2. | Flask It | If you’re like me and refuse to give up the sauce (even though it will end up saving you tons) the BYOB option is a great fail safe. Ok, you may get pitiful and/or dirty looks from discerning bar patrons when whipping out a bottle of Smirnoff in the open but that’s the beauty of the flask. Flasks do a great job concealing your favorite hooch and they come in a variety of sizes and styles. Historically speaking until the mid 19th century, flasks were primarily made of glass, and were often embossed with images or names. For that vintage cool look check eBay – frequently these glass flasks are up for bid. Modern flasks can be found almost everywhere, from the comical styles at Urban Outfitters to the more expensive Tiffany and Co. The best part about the modern metal flasks is that they can be personalized to your liking by any engraver. Use your initials in fancy calligraphy or kitschy quotations like “I Drink to Feel Pretty”. Either way no one is going to fault you for adding a little style to your obvious cheapness.
Lacoste Weekend Bag @ Saks Fifth Avenue ($150)
3. | Reevaluate Purses | Ok boys, I hate to be the one to break it to you but the tote bag is over. The hipster staple has had an unfortunate lasting effect, especially on the male population. Maybe it’s time to butch it up; I mean seriously what is manly about a glorified purse? Enter the Weekend bag. The weekend bag falls somewhere between a duffle and bowling bag. These more masculine options evoke a more athletic, sporty look – while providing multiple carrying solutions – than their distant cousin the tote. Weekend bags are perfect for the gym, shopping trips in Soho or for the upcoming ski weekends to Vermont. Look for uncomplicated, refined designs in durable materials like leather or canvas.
HM by Hanae Morie @ Sephora.com ($70)
4. | Smell better | While not a fan of men who regularly wear cologne, I do find that a scent worn on the right occasion can command a surprisingly sexy and unexpected presence. The problem with wearing cologne is that most men do not know how to choose an appropriate scent for them. Not every cologne is going to smell the same on you as it does on your best buddy. The way a scent reacts with your body and skin is based on chemistry. That’s why the first step is going to a retailer or department store and testing individual fragrances on cards. Find a scent that appeals to your senses and emotions. I try and look for particular ones that have an air of nostalgia to them and remind me of something in my own life. Decipher the fragrance notes in the cologne. Most fragrances have multiple notes with top notes being the most prominent. Do you smell citrus, amber or patchouli? Some of my personal favorites for fall are John Varvatos’ Artisan and Hanae Mori’s HM. A modest change in personal fragrance is a great way to update and your style and look without turning yourself into a Guido from New Jersey.
COMPANY OF WE, in this case “we” being design duo Christopher Crawford and Jayzel Samonte, exploded on the menswear scene in the beginning of June 2009 and these two couldn’t have come at a better time!
With the economy seemingly in the toilet, fashion and style are taking a back seat to lets say things like oh, eating, paying your electric bill and the occasional beer. So what’s a fashionable albeit budget conscious lad to do? Company of We answers our dilemma by redefining the old adage of ‘you get what you pay for.’
When ogling over the fall collections it is apparent that quality and style have not been forsaken in favor of a high markup. The expertly crafted shirts and pants are clean and unpretentious becoming the perfect canvas for the more deconstructed tailoring present in the outerwear. Several notable pieces include the beautifully crafted Crawford Peacoat in Aspen and the unique Pendleton Pant in Army. In all honesty there isn’t anything on this site not worth checking out.
Crawford, already an established women’s designer with his highly coveted Christopher Deane line, demonstrates his ability to easily transition into the menswear category with a casual yet discerning eye. While Samonte brings a much needed marketable and business savvy perspective. With a mix of all the perfect ingredients these two cuties (whom btw are not only business partners but boyfriends too) are helming a recession proof plan for the contemporary male. That’s why I’ll gladly pledge allegiance when Company of We trumpets ‘We the People’
Who are your major influences?
Jay: Dries Van Notten, Hedi Slimane, Michael Bastian and we love what Kris Van Assche is doing- but I wouldn’t necessarily say we subscribe only to those aesthetics. My influences tend to come from more obscure places like a Bob Dylan song or a Rococo golden toilet bowl at some nouveau riche home below Sunset in Beverly Hills. Menswear is so standard in so many ways; I think the only variable left is taste.
Utility + Relevance | Menswear designer, Kai D will be highlighting pieces from his fall 2009 collection on September 29th in a specially created LES pop-up store.
Designer Kai D. draws inspiration from the "old wisdom" of industrial age work wear.
You may be asking, what exactly is a Pop-up store? Not your average lay away or gift card gimmick, a pop-up is an emerging retail trend, conceived to entice customers by opening a storefront for a temporary amount of time, in an attempt to draw shoppers with chic and exclusive products in gallery/exhibition like spaces. The concept is simple keep things fresh keep things interesting.
Kai D manages to adhere to fresh and interesting with a menswear line that re-imagines the functional and utilitarian uniformed male. The inspiration for Kai D’s design is evident in the logo: Tools & Clothing for Artisans. In an effort to keep with the principals of homemade craftsmanship, the designer uses almost entirely local-based resources to produce his collection. The look borrows heavily from early 20th century American steel and rail workers, with hints of military touches that reflect the bygone days of an industrial gritty working class. Must have pieces include the versatile Bowery Shirt (named after authentic New York locations emphasizing local flavor) and the Bond Street Wool Jacket (Kai D’s spin on the traditional sport coat). Overall the line is extremely wearable. The look is defined in its presentation and message but it can also be interchanged effortlessly to reflect a more personal style.
The store will also feature a special collection of t-shirts and bags aptly named Build the Future. Proceeds form the sales will be donated to New York Cares and Give Something Back International which seek to better the lives of the less fortunate through public relief efforts.
The Kai D Utility pop-up store will be located at 75 Orchard Street and will be open until late November. The store will be open from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. daily. To contact the shop call 212.334.6241. Kai D can also be found at Takashimaya and Neiman Marcus.
ENDORSEMENT DEAL | These days’ celebrities are not going to idly sit back and allow you to pigeon hole them in a specific genre. Therefore, it’s not unusual for the movie star, turned singer, turned fashion designer to branch out and crudely saturate consumers with lascivious products. The Kathy Ireland and Jacqueline Smith collections for Kmart come to mind — whose unsightly acrylic blend separates barely caused a discerning wince from the general public. Fragrances aren’t safe from star branding either. J Lo, Sean Combs and yes, even old school Debbie (I mean Deborah) Gibson have churned out some rather questionable albeit sellable scents. So does this mean some of our most beloved entertainers are one trick ponies — or even worse mass market crap peddlers?
My favorite television twins, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, have evolved from Full House’s precocious Michelle Tanner, to become serious competitors in the fashion industry. The Row (named after London’s Savile Row) has been producing high-end women’s ready-to-wear since 2007. It should then come as no surprise that the entrepreneurial duo will be launching a men’s line in late fall 09. Several teaser images have begun to circulate on the Internet garnering increasing interest. The collection is already promising to be a perfect compliment to the women’s line and mimics the same attention to detail and clean lines, which is so quintessentially The Row.
British music producer Mark Ronson, is teaming up with Gucci’s Creative Director Frieda Gianni (a far cry from the hot mess that is Amy Winehouse) to develop an exclusive sneaker collection. The line will consist of 18 sneaker designs, 16 of which I am happy to report are solely for men and a unisex pair that will be unique to each city. A creative retail-marketing coup will take place with specific traveling pop up stores. Locations are set for London, Paris, Berlin, and Soho in October. The prices of the shoes range from $500-600.
Amongst many, David Beckham, Justin Timberlake and even Oasis front man, Liam Gallagher, have or will be trying a hand at designing men’s clothing. For some, famous people willing to license their name with little to no creative involvement could prove to be a professionally slippery slope. There becomes a lucrative potential for a famous name to propel sales despite the quality of the product. However, only when a passion, keen eye for style and a great idea are inherent can we differentiate between good design and a commodity.
Jeffrey Campbell is expanding their market with a collection of men’s shoes. The line, simply named FIRST, is a departure for the LA-based women’s footwear company.
Creative stylist Ty McBride (a JC veteran) is responsible for steering the brand’s focus by producing a small boutique-end collection, which aims at accentuating and defining the fashion-conscious urban male without being overwhelming.
McBride playfully toys with the paradoxes of modern masculinity challenging the shopper’s stereotypical ideas of fashion by “undoing what’s done.” According to McBride the FIRST customer can readily differentiate the common misconceptions between style and fashion, along with being able to effortlessly interpret the aesthetic into a wearable and functional concept.
The shoes are constructed in leather and borrow from a militaristic utilitarian look strongly rooted in war torn WWII Europe circa 1945 (think Tarantino’s “Inglorious Bastards”). The C-605 combat boot with front-lace and speed-hook detailing perfectly demonstrates the versatility and style that McBride jokingly intermingles with notions of manhood. Fashionistas and hipsters are taking notice; the models in the upcoming Loden Dager Spring show will be working the catwalk in the ‘09 styles.
For the past nine years Jeffrey Campbell has been setting the tone for stylish and wearable women’s shoes. Though still in its infancy FIRST is a welcome addition to the Jeffrey Campbell family and the general shoe market at large. The C-605 (amongst others) can be purchased online at Solestruck or select local retailers Tani, Alter and Oak. – Your Arsenal
HANGIN’ TOUGH // Artist and designer Chris Habana expands on key concepts of the POP Art movement in his Fall ‘09 accessories line.
Habana, like prominent 60’s artists Roy Lichtensten and Andy Warhol, manipulates familiar images and words by taking them out of context and incorporating them into the vernacular.
Habana chooses passé slang that is reminiscent of the bygone days of the early 90’s, when the Olsen twins were the homogenous Michelle Tanner and everyone was ‘secretly” listening to NKOTB. Words like Work, Rad, and Snap are cool once again and are plastered on a bevy of crafted necklaces, hats and accessories. The designer also takes inspiration from pop music legends Madonna and Boy George by borrowing their iconic trademarks. The limited edition Michael Jackson white metal glove necklace is particularly relevant in the wake of the King of Pop’s untimely passing. Remember old skool Madonna? The Blond Ambition Tour? Habana takes the infamous Gautier cone bra and delivers some much-needed gold bling that will get you in tune with your inner Material Girl.
The unique charms are fun and extremely wearable despite the in-your-face message. While the abundant pop culture references are undoubtedly kitschy, they are timely and fresh in their presentation and overall effect.
Chris Habana’s collection can be found online or in one of the two OAK locations.
TIED UP // Woodstock turns 40 this August and in the waning days of summer we are all taking a nostalgic look back at the summer of ‘69.
Links of London
This was a time when the ideologies of free love, unity and friendship dominated the counter culture. The friendship bracelet encapsulated the spirit of these ideas representing the tried and true bond between friends, which if removed manually signaled the beginning of the end. Typically the knotted Native American inspired friendship bracelets have gone through many incarnations over the last four decades and unfortunately became trivialized with girl’s sleepovers and summer camp.
Flash forward to the summer of ‘09 and designers are letting their inner children speak by giving B.F.F’s a modern take on the classic bracelet. Local New York designer Scosha weaves linen with metal and stone for an earthy look. Scosha’s jewelry embraces the bohemian style and draws inspiration from everyday life. Paul Smith offers black silk thread accentuated with silver beads perfect for wearing alone or stacking. Links of London uses a unique sterling silver design, hand woven with black and colored thread. These grown-up, yet casual, examples provide a reprieve from the chevron-patterned styles of childhood.
Of course if you’d rather embrace (no-pun intended) the DIY hippie mentality, try a hand at making your own. Its certainly less costly, you can be creative and it becomes a more personal, meaningful gift for your BFF.