F/W 2010 | Prada, Giuliano Fujiwara

With the way Miuccia Prada conceptualizes, or ponders conceptualizing, you can never be sure if the humor in her collection is intentional or that you’re just not in on the joke. But after two seasons of relatively dark and brooding collections it’s a telling sign to feel the tickle of the funny bone in one of fashion’s most omniscient and enigmatic labels.

It’s hard not to feel a bit of a 90’s throwback in either the slight 70’s nod (the collars, sweaters, colors, and prints) done with a 90’s filter (think Dee-lite), the sample of Opus III and Nirvana on the runway soundtrack, or a reprisal of the era’s optimistic mood that kicked off the decade after the gloomy recession of the late 80’s. It’s an attempt by Prada to make silliness and humor cool again.

The commercial appeal of the ribbed knit collars was immediate; a theatrical flair that translated well in camel, peacoats, and patent leather. The other bit of news was a cropped sweater. A tougher sell, it’s the first appearance of a new silhouette; one more body conscious (a term that’s been missing from menswear for 20 years), punctuated (shortened torso), and directional (this won’t be its last appearance for the season).

It’s been a thrill to watch Giuliano Fujiwara reemerge as Masataka Matsumura’s talent has brought the name back into public awareness. Always meant to be a mix between Japanese innovation and western traditionalism, I can’t help but feel that Matsumura lost sight of that mission for something less homegrown.

Jeremy Lewis manages and edits NUEVE MUSAS, a fashion blog for progressive discourse and lateral thinking.

 Related posts:

1. Giuliano Fujiwara: “From The World To Japan” Milan Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2009: Giuliano Fujiwara by Masataka Matsumura: Big in the 80’s and early 90’s the label had been out of the public...
2. Giuliano Fujiwara Spring 2010: The Sleeper Awakens Absent from men.style.com and almost completely unknown to even the most astute fashion followers, Giuliano Fujiwara is slowly creeping back into the awareness of...
3. Milan Men’s Fashion Week Here at homo-neurotic we’re pleased that there are no noticeable causalities of the recession off the list this season. We’ll be looking forward to Jil...
4. Prada Spring 2010: These Grey Days A collection done almost entirely in tones of gray, to suggest old black and white movies according to Miuccia, was one of Prada’s most...
5. Defiles! The Men’s F/W 2010-2011 Season Another year and another season! January kicks off the winter’s slew of fashion weeks starting with the Milanese menswear collections. For many designers and luxury...