McQueen Spring 2010: Abstract Depressionism

As a master tailor trained on saville row, McQueen was almost entitled to be one of the premiere menswear designers even before he showed his MA womens collection at Central St. Martins. The lynchpin, despite his skills in cutting, is that his fantastic vision and creative force has yet to resonate in his men’s collection, most likely due to the specific nature of menswear and that McQueen’s tendency for extravagance and theater are meaningless for a customer that prizes utility and practicality.

But this season he paired it down. Instead of a show he produced a video and a simple but effective lookbook. They casted a mature model, giving the clothes a realistic appeal that 17 year old boys could never quite communicate, a realism totally necessary for McQueen’s creations. The theme is the artist, a Pollock archetype in the pantheon of masculine characters, mixed with a bit of American folk. The most striking details in the collection are the quilted stars done on a shirt and the multi-color chrome print that was applied to a vest, shirt, and jacket- a pleasant show of the designer ingenious wit and penchant for the macabre. Easily one of McQueen’s most wearable collections and most effective at communicating his brand values.

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