NYC FASHION WEEK FALL 2009: TELFAR

The show was set at St. Mark’s Cathedral and the monastic chanting that played as guests filled in hinted at the collection’s mood. Even before the first look, the sunlight pouring through the stained glass windows evoked a sense of calm pious reflection. To little surprise it was the monastic quality of the church and its ecclesiastical confluence of uniform and ceremony that proved to be a starting point for Telfar. Taking a cue from the strict lines of clergy attire Telfar used this inspiration to add his own touch to active wear jackets, leggings, and jumpsuits, boldly imagined for the youthful and daring – worn with Dr. Marten variations on Mary Janes. The stark effect was only hampered by what seemed to be fit problems, tailored clothes lacking the required precision giving way to pull lines and seam pucker. The clothes would have perhaps been more compelling if they were as soft as the vibe the rest of the presentation gave. Still, the practical essentialist nature of the pieces will be sure to be a hit with Telfar’s usual customer and perhaps for those who have been too reserved to attempt his clothes before.

The collection is currently on view in an installation at EVA, 355 Bowery

*images by Shawn Brackbill for Dazed and Confused

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