Dior Homme Descends Into The 6th Circle of Hell

To be honest the last few collections Hedi Slimane produced for Dior Homme were not his finest. His rock n’ roll and uber slim aesthetic had become a trap haunted by ghosts of Peter Doherty and The Misshapes parties. Between what seemed like a lack of fresh stimulation and increasing merchandising pressures the mystique that once gave the brand it’s impossibly cool aura had dissolved. By the time Hedi left, LVMH had developed it into an expensive denim brand coveted by rich Japanese teenagers and Kanye West.

Hedi’s sabbatical from fashion left a vacuum that has been eagerly and thoroughly filled. It’s in this time that Thom Browne gained recognition out of New York, when Lucas Ossendrijver was discovered at Lanvin, and now a new guard of menswear designers are booming from Paris to Stockholm to Brooklyn. The stakes are higher, the playing field is leveled, and past attitudes simply don’t cut it anymore.

Despite a few novel plays on volume with some jersey tee’s and trousers (although nothing nearly as joyous as his pleated trousers from last spring) Kris Van Aasche’s collection for Spring 09 was nothing short of a fiasco. The collection seemed to be a mockery of itself as if Van Aasche was maliciously taking a jab at the brand’s DNA Slimane had created. I cannot at this point ascertain what exactly it is Van Aasche is getting at. I’m not sure if anyone really can. — JEREMY L.

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