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Zoot Suit Riot | Kris Van Asche Dior Homme

May 15, 2008 in Fashion by Antonio Cerna | 10 comments

2 LEGIT | Does Mr. Asche really think we’re going to rush out to purchase one of his M.C. Hammer-slash-zoot suit inspired ensembles for Dior Homme?

Photo Chiun-Kai Shih

Photo: Chiun-Kai Shih.

Did he miss the memo about the US being in a recession? Usually** when designers trot out decadent pleating it’s because the country is in a financial boom. (See all 1950’s fashions.)

I guess there’s no rice shortage at Nobu or Masa or wherever it is that models rake their rice from one side of his dish to the other.

Perhaps this retro look is meant to disguise the skeletal frame underneath? Why don’t you explain it to me.

(**See the comments section after the jump where I get schooled about zuit suits and Dior Homme. Though, I stand behind my “Usually.” Next time I’ll double check with Faggoting first.)

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  1. Rick’s avatar

    Rick on May 15, 2008 at 10:50 am

    In white with turbans, they’d look like screentests for a live-action “Aladdin.” I mean, seriously? Really? With those pimp shoes?

  2. jeremy’s avatar

    jeremy on May 15, 2008 at 4:19 pm

    Hedi Slimane does not design Dior Homme anymore, it’s Kris Van Asche his former assistant.

    And Zoot suits actually came into popularity during WII when there was a supply restriction on fabric, urban blacks and latinos wore them as a form of rebellion against the government.

    grrrl, you better check your info

  3. homoneurotic’s avatar

    homoneurotic on May 15, 2008 at 5:28 pm

    Ooops! Thanks for clearing that up Jeremy. I’m going to make sure I double check all fashion posts with you first. Thanks for the schooling. Am I wrong to believe that pleating and excess fabrics (longer skirt lengths, bulkier suit jackets, layering) in fashion tend to appear during economic boom times? Like in the 1950’s and 1980’s in US fashion?

  4. Jeremy’s avatar

    Jeremy on May 16, 2008 at 9:04 pm

    Not wrong but you can’t count on it as a rule either.
    .
    The 50’s saw Dior’s new look gain popularity because it brought back a sense of romance and witless femininity. This was extremely refreshing for all the woman who wore straight and narrow skirts (due to wartime fabric restrictions) or even wore their husband’s work uniforms as they engaged in the public sphere for the first time. But it wasn’t the case with men. Conversely menswear became more conservative and standard if anything else. Men who had spent the war wearing comfortable and practical uniforms looked for the same sensibility in their civilian lives. Also corporate culture really boomed and that greatly affected the conception of professional dress. Think Gregory Peck in “The Man In The Gray Flannel Suit”. No frills no matter how wealthy you were.

    When Dior showed his first collection it caused a stir because it was seen as a total disregard for the wartime sacrifices women had to make. Considering the terror and suffering of the war you can gauge the outrage that broke out. Also, it was seen as misogynistic and totally sexist by women who found liberation in the public sphere during the war. Not all were ready to revert back and dress up like dolls.

    In the 80’s everything was big and certainly it’s indicative of the wealth of the period but I think it was at this time that excess fabric lost its cache as a symbol communicating wealth and outrageous fantasy. It was more about Chanel pearls, Armani suits, and Rolex watches.

    Somehow I don’t see heavy pleating and large volumes causing the same stir in fashion ever again.

    What I actually love about Kris Van Asche’s first effort at Dior is that he’s taking a literal reference from the house’s heritage and designing with it. I think I like the pleated pants, not sure if I’ll be wearing them anytime soon but these are an extreme. There’s certainly a nugget of inspiration in there and I look forward to other designers developing some less severe options.

    like these sack-waisted pants from Givenchy Fall 08 perhaps

    http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/F2008MEN/GIVENCHYMEN/RUNWAY/00150m.jpg

  5. Jonathan’s avatar

    Jonathan on May 19, 2008 at 2:46 pm

    We should also not forget that this is a very conscious departure from the super lean shapes that were prevalent during Hedi Slimane’s tenure. Funny thing is, I didn’t see any of these big pleated slacks when browsing the Dior Homme store this weekend…still the same ol skinny pieces.

  6. homoneurotic’s avatar

    homoneurotic on May 19, 2008 at 3:26 pm

    wow. thank you both for the insightful comments. i love when this happens. jeremy. you’re the best. i can’t wait to see you posting again on faggoting. that’s your blog right?

  7. Jeremy’s avatar

    Jeremy on May 19, 2008 at 9:33 pm

    I doubt any stores ordered those pants because of their cost. They’re nice show pieces.

    And, I updated my blog just for you!

  8. Jonathan’s avatar

    Jonathan on May 20, 2008 at 1:12 pm

    True, the most extravagant pieces are typically not found in stores. I would have expected at least a pair of two on show though. I was hoping to try a pair on for fun. I suspect I might look like I work the dim sum shift at the Golden Palace with them on though.